Tips and Tidbits
The new Vision 2 Observation camera from Furrion is in a league of its own.
For the past few years, the wireless camera after-market line up has been pretty "archaic" to say the least, with poor signal, poor picture, poor quality, all leading to a poor experience. A wireless camera system is supposed to make hard tasks easy, like changing lanes on the highway, backing into tight spots, or even checking your load. Unfortunately, a wireless setup that actually works, could cost you big bucks...Not Anymore
Furrion's Vision 2 features the latest in 2.4Ghz technology, for a clear picture, up to 100 feet, with no interference. Furrion's infrared camera streams its picture to a 4.3" LCD color display. Featuring image stabilization, night vision, direct pairing, and its vibration resistant. Tested for natures extreme climates, with a viewing angle of 110*, keeping an eye on your rig has never been easier. And its now possible.
In our own words, "We have the Vision 2 Observation System on our RV, and we don't know how this camera hasn't made its way onto every RV...We love it"
Click here to see our Furrion products on sale now.
Incandescent lights have been illuminating our roads since the early 1920's. Until now!
It is no secret that the trailer/automotive world has jumped on the LED train, and there are a few good reasons why you should too!
LED, short for (Light Emitting Diode) lights have many advantages over Incandescent lights. The three biggest being performance, efficiency, and life expectancy.
BE SEEN: LED lights are significantly brighter, and provide a more focused illumination in almost every installed location when compared to traditional incandescent lights. Which means you have a much greater chance of being seen on the road. Having brighter brake lights, turn signals, and clearance lights all contribute to the safety of you and your rig.
EFFICIENCY: When compared to Incandescent lights, LED lights can draw as much 90% less amperage to function at full capacity, translating into less draw and demand from your trailers connections and any power source.
LIFE: In some cases, LED lights have been known to out last incandescent lights by over 6 times that of an average incandescent lifespan. This is due to LED lights not relying on brittle filaments inside the bulb to create light. In addition, most LED lights are sealed in their own housing, making them impervious to water.
COST: When compared to standard incandescent lights, the LED is usually more expensive. This is due to the additional steps and manufacturing process to develop LEDs. But keep in mind, when you make the switch to LED lights, you can count on all your lights needing less repairs and replacements. The initial up front cost may be more, but your lights can now last 6 times as long, saving you money.
THE SWITCH: Converting to LED Lights is as easy as replacing your incandescent light fixture with the new LED light fixture. ITS THAT SIMPLE!!! Most LED lights are also designed with identical standardized mounting holes. Meaning that there is a good chance your light has a drop in replacement in its new LED form.
Its time for your trailer to be seen, please browse through our selection and contact us with any questions. we would love to help you make the switch.
Don't let the cold, "freeze" up your schedule!
Most standard 7-way trailer connections can withstand below freezing temperatures... as long as you don't plan on using them in freezing temperatures for very long. If you do find yourself hauling out in the cold frequently, you may want to consider the Arctic Cord.
Arctic Cord remains flexible, and wont split when you need it most. Heavy duty construction from the self-cleaning double pins, to the sealed silicone bonded wires, Have been specially formulated to withstand the bitter cold. Rated to a chilly -40*C. Being flexible in freezing climates is key to not cracking or splitting wires.
Or, maybe you like to tow your favorite rig across the scorching trails in Death Valley, The Arctic Cord is still your best bet! Rated at a boiling 105*C, or 221*F!
With a sealed, flexible, and snug fitting Arctic Cord, you can rest assured your rigs 7-way connection wont be putting the FREEZE on your plans!!!
And for your convenience, we stock 3 different lengths just for you!
Check out our selection!
Chances are your Trailer is equipped with brakes, and just like the brakes on your Tow Rig, your trailers brakes need some maintenance from time to time. When it comes to servicing your trailers brakes, and getting the right parts that fit your application, there are a few key points to consider that will ensure you can properly identify your brakes, as well as some tips as to why your brakes may not be functioning properly.
- Identifying Electric Brakes
- Right or Left: With the magnet positioned at the bottom of the brake, the actuating arm will start at the "Top Pivot" and curve downward towards the "Magnet". Arms curving Left, are left hand assemblies, where as arms curving Right, are right hand assemblies.
- Size: Measure the diameter of the mounted shoe assemblies across the front center, then measure the width of the shoe lining. This will give you your brakes size.
- Flange Mount: Determine the number of mounting bolts on your brake by counting the mounting holes, or studs on your brakes assembly.
- Replacement Parts: Sometimes a brakes functions can be restored by replacing a key component. Where as in some cases it may be cost effective to replace the entire brake assembly. Here is a list of the common replaceable parts.
- (1) Magnet
- (2) Return Springs
- (2) Hold Down Springs
- (2) Show linings Primary, and secondary
- (1) Adjuster
- (1) Adjuster Spring
- Troubleshooting Faulty Brakes:
- Magnets: The first and most common sign of a faulty magnet is erratic Brake Control Behavior. Magnets control the intensity of the brakes by grabbing the inside face of your brake drum, engaging the brake shoes. Magnets should be checked for exposed windings, and pinched or frayed wires. The face of the magnet also reflects the inside surface of your brake drum. In order for the magnet to "grab" the drums surface, both surfaces must be alike. For example; A new magnets surface will be flat, where as the drums inside face may not be flat, creating less "grabbing surface" for the magnet, and weaker brakes.
- Brake Adjustment: In order for your brakes to operate as they should, they must be adjusted from time to time. Even self adjusting brakes fail to properly adjust themselves if key components begin to wear. Start by manually turning the Adjuster until you cannot turn the wheel, then back off the adjuster until the wheel is able to spin freely. A properly adjusted brake will have a Slight Constant Drag on the shoes.
- Adjuster & Spring: The Adjuster is located below the magnet, and should be "turn-able" but also under constant pressure from the Adjuster spring. A worn out Adjuster is unusual, but they are prone to freezing or seizing up. Sometimes you can hear them "rolling around" inside your hub/Drum assembly, this is a sign the adjuster was maxed out, or the spring is broken. A maxed out adjuster can also mean your brakes are ready for new Shoes and Linings. ( If your shoes and linings are not worn out, and the Adjuster is maxed out: you need to check your Hold Down Springs, or check the drums inside bore diameter to ensure it is within maximum re-bore spec's which is located on inner lip of the brake drum ).
- Return & Hold Down Springs: Common signs of worn or weak springs inside your brakes are: Heat, Brake Drag, or "stinky Brakes". When a Return Spring becomes weak or fails, the shoes may not retract or may become stuck, generating excessive heat or causing brake failure. Hold Down Springs keep your brake linings aligned and centered, as well as mounted on the brake backing plate assembly. Worn out hold down springs will cause premature brake failure.
- Shoes and Linings: Shoes and linings should wear even throughout the entire assembly. Irregular wear on the linings can usually be corrected by properly adjusting the brakes, and ensuring the return springs are properly functioning.
- Check out Our Selection of Brake Parts! As it grows everyday!
Most flatbed trailers come with stake pockets spaced evenly down both sides to put your own side extensions on, but only a few d-rings to tie down your load. Now you can take advantage of the seemingly endless supply of stake pockets and add your own d-ring tie downs anywhere there is a stake pocket with the Stake Pocket D-Ring.
Step 1: Determine Type of Trailer Spring
Determine the type of trailer spring. What do the ends of your trailer spring look like? Below are images of the most common types of trailer springs. You will need to know if you have a double eye spring or a slipper spring with a flat, radius, open eye, or hook end.
Step 2: Measure Width of Spring
Measure the width of the spring. The majority of trailer springs for boat, motorcycle, horse, camping, flatbed, and utility trailers range from 1-3/4 to 2 inches wide. To determine the width, measure across the top of the top leaf.
Step 3: Measure Length of Spring
Measure the length of the spring. If you are replacing a spring, getting the same length is important. To measure the free length, refer to letter “C” below. It is important that your trailer is unloaded when measuring the length. When determining length (C), measure from the center of one spring eye to the center of the other spring eye for double eye springs. Measurements will vary depending on the age and fatigue of your spring. We offer a large selection of trailer springs. Determining the length first, will narrow your selection down considerably and make finding the correct spring quicker.
Step 4: Determine Capacity
Determine the capacity and how many leafs. Determine what type of capacity you require and how many steel leaves your existing springs have. If you are replacing all of your springs, the number of leafs will not be as important. You can switch from a 4 leaf to a 3 leaf with thicker steel if you prefer. The capacity ratings are per spring. Determine the rating of your trailer axle and then select the capacity of your springs. If you have a 6000 lb. rated trailer axle with two springs, use two 3000 lb. rated or higher trailer springs.
Step 5: Measure Free Open and Arc of the Spring
Measure the free open (H) and the arc (A) and (B) of the trailer spring. These measurements are more for reference and will change with the age and fatigue of your spring. These measurements can show you the importance of replacing all of your springs rather than one at a time. If you have an older spring that has lost its arc over time and you add one new spring with a taller arc to the other side of your trailer, your trailer will lean to one side causing for an uneven load and unsafe conditions.
Trailer Spring Capacity
The capacity rating is per spring. If you have a 6000 lb. rated trailer axle with two springs, use two 3000 lb. rated springs.
Change Springs in Pairs
All springs are sold individually, but it is highly recommended to change them in pairs. Changing only one spring may cause your trailer to lean to one side due to the spring fatigue of the unchanged spring(s) and can cause excessive tire wear.
As we have been uploading parts and selling items we have figured out some shipping discounts and shortcuts and would like to pass some of those savings on to you. Visit our ebay store here for the latest special deals!